Best HDMI Splitter for Gaming: Picks and What to Look For

The right HDMI device for gaming depends on the direction of the signal: a splitter (one source, several displays) such as the OREI BK-104A or EZCOO 1×2 suits capture-card and dual-screen setups, while a switch (several sources, one display) such as the UGREEN HDMI 2.1 switch suits a TV shared by two or three consoles. For 4K at 120 Hz with variable refresh rate, either type must be a true HDMI 2.1 device with 48 Gbps bandwidth.

Splitter or switch: pick the direction first

People searching for a gaming “splitter” often need two different products. A splitter duplicates one output to two or more screens, which is useful for sending a console to a monitor and a capture card for streaming. A switch does the opposite and lets a PS5, Xbox and PC share one TV input. Buying the wrong direction is the most common error, and listings sometimes blur the names.

• One source, two displays or a capture card: splitter.
• Two or more consoles, one TV or monitor: switch.
• Both: a switch after the sources, or a splitter before the display, depending on which side you need to expand.

What the specs on the box mean

Bandwidth

HDMI 2.0 devices top out around 18 Gbps, which is enough for 4K at 60 Hz but not 4K at 120 Hz. HDMI 2.1 uses up to 48 Gbps. Reviewers who cover this category agree that a product should state 48 Gbps explicitly before you expect 4K120 to pass through. Some bundles pair a 4K60 switch with a 48 Gbps cable in the listing title, and the cable figure does not describe the switch itself.

VRR, ALLM and QFT

Variable refresh rate (VRR) lets the display match the console’s frame output, auto low latency mode (ALLM) tells the TV to switch to game mode, and quick frame transport (QFT) reduces display delay. Makers of the better gaming splitters list VRR and ALLM; if a listing does not, assume it may not pass them.

EDID and HDCP

EDID is the handshake that tells a console what the display supports. A splitter with EDID management can fix cases where the console downgrades resolution because one connected screen is less capable. HDCP 2.3 compliance matters for protected streaming apps on a console.

At a glance

Splitter picks

OREI BK-104A: for several displays

OREI lists the BK-104A as an 8K 1×4 splitter with downscaling, audio extraction and EDID management, with 48 Gbps FRL bandwidth and support for 8K at 60 Hz, 4K at 120 Hz and 1080p at 240 Hz. The listing also names HDR10+, Dolby Vision, HLG, VRR, ALLM, QMS, QFT and SBTM. Several review roundups name it as one of the few splitters that passes HDMI 2.1 gaming features. A reseller page lists an older 40 Gbps figure, which probably describes an earlier unit, so check the revision on the box.

This is the choice if you want to feed a monitor, a TV and a capture card from one console. EDID DIP switches let you force the output to the lowest common capability when one of the displays is older.

EZCOO 1×2: for the capture-card setup

EZCOO’s product page for its 1×2 HDMI 2.1 splitter advertises 8K at 60 Hz and 4K at 120 Hz at 48 Gbps with HDCP 2.3 bypass, EDID control and 4K-to-1080p downscaling. The manual says it can output 4K and 1080p at once, which is useful when a capture card only accepts 1080p. The EZ-SP12H28S variant supports 8K and 4K outputs at the same time. Reviewers place it among the gaming-friendly VRR-capable options.

Cheaper 1×2 options

One reviewer recommends the avedio links 8K 1×2 splitter or UGREEN’s HDMI 2.1 switch for 4K120 console play, reporting that VRR, ALLM and HDR10+ passed correctly. The same roundup says the SHERRIVA 8K 1×4 passed VRR on VRR-capable displays. Many of these listings come from affiliate-style sites, so weigh maker specs above their claims.

Switch picks

UGREEN HDMI 2.1 switch (3-in-1-out)

UGREEN’s UK page lists 48 Gbps transmission, HDR10+, Dolby Vision and Atmos support, VRR, ALLM, QFT, QMS, FreeSync and G-Sync. Reviewers call it the best-value switch for a PS5, Xbox and PC sharing a TV. The 2-in-1-out version lists 8K at 60 Hz, 4K at 120 Hz and 240 Hz, and VRR.

StarTech 4-port 8K switch

StarTech’s switch is described by reviewers as a multi-console option with 4K at 120 or 144 Hz, 8K at 60 Hz, VRR, ALLM, CEC and auto-switching. It sits in the premium tier and suits a shelf with four sources.

Models to avoid for 4K120

• UGREEN’s 5-in-1 switch is limited to 4K at 60 Hz at 18 Gbps.
• Anker’s 4-in-1 switch is described by reviewers as limited to 4K at 60 Hz.
• The Happfeel 1×4 splitter did not appear to pass VRR in one roundup.

These are fine for a 4K60 setup, but they will not carry high-refresh output from a current console or a graphics card.

Compatibility and cable notes

• Cables: use Ultra High Speed HDMI cables between every device; a Premium High Speed cable can limit the link.
• Short runs: keep cables short because 48 Gbps signals are less tolerant of long passive runs.
• Power: most splitters need their own adapter; use the one supplied.
• Dolby Vision gaming: check the maker’s notes if you rely on it, since pass-through support differs.
• PC graphics cards: VRR from a PC may depend on the display and the device’s EDID handling.

Pick X if …

Setting up a splitter or switch for gaming

Start by listing every device and the best signal each can send. A console that outputs 4K at 120 Hz needs a 48 Gbps path from the console to the display, so every cable and every port on that path must be rated for it. Connect the console to the device input with an Ultra High Speed cable, connect the display to the output, and enable the console’s 120 Hz and VRR options in its video settings after the link is up.

If the console reports a lower resolution than expected, the usual cause is the EDID the device is presenting. Splitters with EDID DIP switches let you choose a mode, such as copying the main display’s capabilities. When a second screen is only a capture card, use the downscaling option so the console is not forced down to the capture card’s limits. Keep power adapters plugged in, since an underpowered splitter can drop the link intermittently. Finally, read the maker’s manual for HDCP behavior, because protected video apps may blank a duplicated output.

Alternatives

If your TV has spare HDMI 2.1 ports, skip the switch and plug in directly. A TV with eARC can also route audio to a soundbar without extra hardware. For streaming, a capture card with its own pass-through output may remove the need for a splitter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will an HDMI splitter add input lag?

A good splitter passes the signal with little processing, but reviewers note that cheap units may drop features such as VRR. Look for a maker listing that names VRR and ALLM pass-through.

Can I use a splitter to play on two screens in different resolutions?

Yes, if the splitter has EDID management or downscaling. Some units can output 4K to one display and 1080p to another, as EZCOO’s manual describes.

Does a splitter work with HDCP-protected content?

Many do, but HDCP behavior varies. Look for HDCP 2.3 on the spec list, and note that capture cards usually cannot record protected content.

Do I need a splitter or a switch for two consoles?

You need a switch, since two sources feed one display. A splitter would be the wrong direction for that job.

Why does my console not show 4K120?

The usual causes are a cable, a port or a device limited to HDMI 2.0 bandwidth. Make sure every link supports 48 Gbps and that the TV port is the HDMI 2.1 one.

Is an HDMI 2.1 splitter worth it for 1080p play?

Not really. If you only play at 1080p or 4K60, an HDMI 2.0 device carries the signal fine, and you can save money.